The sherry bodega naves

Jerez's cellars were built like basilicas on purpose. High roofs and thick walls keep the temperature stable, tall windows are shuttered to a slit so the light comes in as a bar rather than a flood, and the sand floor is watered to hold humidity. The result is a building that behaves like a studio: soft, directional light, deep shadow and a colour palette of chalk white, black oak and gold.

The frames are obvious once you are inside. Look down a nave and the arches repeat to a vanishing point; stand a subject in one of the light bars and the background falls away to black. Detail shots — chalk marks on a barrel head, a venencia, the tasting glasses — fill out a set without leaving the room.

The main houses of the town keep their naves within a few minutes of the Alcázar, and several of them are among the oldest in the sherry triangle.

This is the one location here that is entirely dependent on permission. Bodegas are private, working businesses; they run guided visits at set times, and each one has its own policy on tripods, flash and commercial shoots. Some will arrange a private session outside visiting hours. Check with the individual bodega well before the date — do not turn up hoping.